I first visited the Kröller-Müller museum in the Hoge Veluwe National park when I was an art student in London. There had been an official college trip organised to Barcelona and Madrid, however I and a few friends simply didn’t have the money to join such an outing. As an alternative we organised our own cultural excursion. It was a cut price affair, staying in the cheapest of cheap hostels in Amsterdam and spending, I think, five days visiting the cultural high points of the Netherlands.
Undoubtedly the most surprising to me then, was the visit to the Kröller-Müller museum. An hour east of Amsterdam on the train, followed by twenty minutes on the bus, before entering the park and picking up one of the free white bikes to get around the expansive landscape of the Hoge Veluwe Park. If I think back to that first visit I remember walking through pine forests and across dazzling sand dunes on a bright, crisp morning in early spring. It wasn’t what I had expected of the Dutch landscape. How different it was as a way to approach a museum art collection. My more familiar routine was to battle through the busy streets of London making use of packed buses and underground trains.
Crossing this windswept Dutch landscape brought us to the destination that our tutors back in London had raved about, the elegant Kröller-Müller museum. A stylish, modernist building housing the collection put together by Helene Kröller-Müller in the early years of the twentieth century and featuring the work of van Gogh, Mondriaan and many other modern masters. Behind the museum you have an extensive and ever growing sculpture park and forest.
Little did I know when I made that first visit all those years ago, that within three years I would find myself living in the Netherlands and within biking distance of the park and the museum. Regularly, as we did yesterday, we take our bikes and head off in a north-east direction. It is a 20km ride through forests and over heathland. As I said at the start, I’m yet to discover a better combination of physical exercise, landscape and art. The temporary exhibition for this particular visit being a rarely seen display of early van Gogh drawings.
Click here for more about the Kröller-Müller museum.